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Over the years, the former Vogue editor and design director of accessories for Ralph Lauren dressed the likes of Chelsea Clinton, Alicia Keys, Jennifer Lopez, and Mariah Carey (in a 27-foot train, no less) for their weddings. We lost two months [because of COVID-19], but I’d rather take the time to really get [the new collection] right. Even now that we are back at the studio, everything takes more time. I always thought it was obscene to show more just to sell more, anyway—it dilutes the vision of a brand. Who is genius enough to design so many collections— to make them all really good?
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But I wimped out of design school when I was a teenager; entrance exams required a portfolio, and it felt so out of reach to me. I went to USC film school, graduated, and worked with William Morris for five years, then got a job working at a production company. I wanted to produce movies—analogous to my store—that were female-led stories, or with female directors, and that’s not what I did at all. So I got to this point where I was really unhappy in entertainment, and giant male-centered projects were not where my heart was. I had one lightbulb-style epiphany to have a store, and the brands that should be in it, and the name came to me from the beginning [Bickers' great-great-grandmother’s name]. It symbolized longevity and had a feminine appeal and it is also a kind of flower.
Fashion design
This takes place on a citywide basis and occurs twice a year. The main seasons of Fashion Week include; spring/summer, fall/winter, resort, swim, and bridal. Fashion designers attempt to design clothes that are functional as well as aesthetically pleasing.
Rick Owens, Designer
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When a designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the toile (or muslin), they will consult a professional pattern maker who then makes the finished, working version of the pattern out of card or via a computer program. Finally, a sample garment is made up and tested on a model to make sure it is an operational outfit. Fashion design is expressive, the designers create art that may be functional or non-functional. The first space, drenched in crimson, used carpeting and Iris Ceramica lacquered “Melt” tiles as the backdrop for several geometric collaborative lamps, including the future-forward hanging piece known as Modular and Megaphone, a gradient glass table lamp. The sprawling second room, with floors and walls dressed in cracked, crinkled layers of metallic silver foil, introduced furnishings produced with Moroso, like a duffle bag-inspired D-uffle Sofa in technical canvas, the comfy, curvaceous Puff-D chair, and the Camp Bed. In the historic courtyard outside, MCM also utilized a transparent greenhouse as a flower shop, book store, and temporary boutique.
Social scene
While other little boys were drawing cars and dinosaurs, Terrence O’Brian Henderson was sketching people wearing clothing styles born from his colorful imagination. More than a century ago, in Northern Italy’s Biella Alps, Ermenegildo Zegna commenced a reforestation project around his wool mill, throughout an area known today as Oasi Zegna. Since the Zegna founder embarked on this vast undertaking, more than 500,000 trees have been planted and nurtured in an area that stretches some 100 square kilometers. A second-floor terrace also allowed visitors to stroll around—and reflect upon—one tree at the heart of an open-air courtyard. In tandem with this, Zegna also took over custodianship (for the next three years) of the flowerbeds at Milan’s most recognizable architectural structure, Piazza Duomo, decorating the popular tourist destination with flora reminiscent of Oasi Zegna. As lullabies began to play over the speakers, a procession of models began circulating around the room as if sleepwalking, before being dressed by two mysterious attendants in a full Browne three-piece suit and tucking themselves into bed.
Solange bought them and took them on her honeymoon and took pictures, and it was like, Huh, wow! I’ve done them every season, and they always sell like crazy. As the cautionary tale of Lindsay Lohan at Ungaro illustrates, the transition from being famous for something else to becoming a famous fashion designer is a path fraught with peril.
We believe that to provide our students with a well-rounded fashion education, there must be a balance between classroom academics and real-world experiences. This is why we actively participate in a number of fashion shows and exhibitions, allowing our enrollees to showcase their designs and network with other professionals in the greater fashion community. I was so green in New York, but practically doing anything in New York is harder—finding vendors is harder, the price point is harder, the wholesale level is higher, and there is not as much product.
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Like many of the great names on this list, Philo designs for herself. At Chloé, that meant the sexy, unaffected effortlessness of bottom-hugging flares, Victorian military jackets, wispy camisoles, silk plissé goddess dresses, and, finally, the A-line ’60s shifts that produced a thousand knock-offs before her exit. A few years later she reappeared at Céline, proposing an arty-intellectual strain of minimalism tailored to not just to her new maturity—she was now a mom of three—but also to the straitened times. Her Céline was a hit from the word go, producing a handful of It bags, sparking a Birkenstock craze that’s still ongoing, and launching trends straightforward (white boots) and sublime (modest dressing wouldn’t be the thing it is without Philo).
Natacha Ramsay-Levi, Designer, Chloé
Tuition fees can deter many potential students, and we want to address this issue as much as possible. Online learning allows us to deliver quality lessons to our enrollees while eliminating a portion of the cost. Virtual learning is the most budget-friendly option, from saving on gas for your car to eating lunches at home and accessing learning materials online. Unfortunately, it’s a solution many fashion design schools have yet to offer, so we’re proud to be ahead of the curve. All of them have at least a woman involved; sometimes there are couples and design teams, but I like a visible female leader. I like there to be a true face of the brand; that’s something I respond to and my customer responds to a lot, as well.
Other important centres of the scene are Munich, Hamburg, and Cologne. German fashion is known for its elegant lines as well as unconventional young designs and the great variety of styles. According to the testimony of her co-defendants and former employees, ahead of important fashion events, Gonzalez, described as a micromanager, would recruit as many as 40 passengers to carry four designer handbags each on commercial flights. In this way, prosecutors estimate that she smuggled goods that fetched as much as US$2m in the US. Gonzalez’s attorneys disputed the claim and said each skin cost only about $140.
But this year the streetwear virtuoso solidified his industry status thanks to collaborations with major brands like Converse and Ugg and branching into TV. "I think it's cool that people are discovering me now," says Clemens. "I've been doing what I wanted to do with passion and creativity for the last 15 years, and I'm happy it's starting to move out of a fashion space and affecting more people."
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